Mystico-Seventies – Ann Demeulemeester
Sebastien Meunier, an avid art lover, chose to immerse his collection for fall-winter 2019 in psychedelic hues of red, poppy, opium violet and anise green. An apt colour-coding decision, considering where the inspirations lay. He looked extensively towards the rebellious art scene of 1970s Antwerp, whereabouts Ann Demeulemeester herself emerged. The looks were heavily informed by the works of prominent member of the scene – James Lee Byars, which can be seen today in front of Ann Demeulemeester stores. Monumental, trailing, draped volumes of fabric (often in poppy red) are a linchpin of the artist, as well as the tall Holy Mountain-esque open crown hat which would often feature in installations and on the artist himself.
The silhouettes – airier than usual, also hinted towards the Seventies and had transformability in mind. Maxi dresses could be worn loose, belted, gathered with string or sleeves-optional. Evergreen tropes including waistcoats, feathered coats and satin trousers were present throughout, and feathered or webbed accessories added the right amount of fan service. The venue itself accentuated the wild colours and frivolous attitude of the clothes – an almost sterile white plaster runway at one of Paris’ largest concert halls – the Théâtre National de Chaillot.
images: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com