cross-border unity – rick owens
After a season celebrating the iconic yet overlooked cult designer Larry LeGaspi, and his seminal space-sleaze, chrome-and-leather aesthetic, Rick Owens turned to another long-standing inspiration of his – his mother. Naming his #ss20 collection after her maiden Mixtec name “Tecuatl”, Owens explored themes which are relevant to all of us today. As an antithesis to Donald Trump’s desire to wall-off the southern border of the US, Owens creates an open and ephemeral space in which to celebrate his maternal heritage in all its beauty and strength, as well as cross-border cooperation and kinship. Black robe-clad actors created enormous soap bubbles from the pond at the terrace of Palais De Tokyo where Owens regularly holds his summer shows. Their iridescent surfaces warped and moved through the air much like the green-violet oily leather, nylon and denim creations he sent down the runway.
His recently emboldened colour use was no exception here, and Tecuatl boasted a wide range of royal yellows, clay reds, candy pinks and the significant UXMAL print found on skirts, dresses and kaftans. Bauhaus-tribal headgear inspired by Aztec Revival pioneers and modernist icons Anni and Jozef sent models towering like demiurges awakened from millennial slumber. Mega-laced bombers and tops and crinoline-inflated ballgowns all gave a sense of monolithic Aztec glory. Elsewhere, micro-sequins formed a chain-mill-like armour on tops, dresses and coats with architectural shoulders. The latter took many forms and sizes and were once again reminiscent of some ancient Mezzo-American deity lost to the sands time.
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Photos: Copyright Vogue Runway