Non-binary (de)generation – maison margiela
For his ready-to-wear offering this season, John Galliano championed transformability, versatility, the non-predetermined. A completely genderless wardrobe, the idea of breaking out of your mould and exploring the unfamiliar. Yet this was all done through first deconstructing the familiar – jackets and trousers turned upside-down and inside-out to become dresses or skirts. Sober tailoring was the perfect vehicle for showcasing this metamorphosis, as remnants of construction (and tailor’s stitching) clearly indicated the starting point, while the silhouette spoke of the destination. “It’s not about the end product – it’s the journey” instructed the designer in his podcast, where he also explained the relevance of Swan Lake as folklore rooted in reality – the feeling of not belonging in your skin and the catharsis of breaking out.
The collection was also part of an anthology the designer has been building up over the last seasons, the theme being Decadence. In this instalment, Galliano introduces the idea of decadence being cyclical – artifice, excess, turn into toning-down, degeneration, decay; brining the idea to its pure form – the proportion, the feeling, the construction – again tailoring’s role becomes apparent. While minimalism was definitely an ingredient, Galliano’s way of mixing of classic tweeds and herringbones on Duchess satins and printed nylons added to the transformation of timeless to modern.
images: copyright: Alessandro Lucioni